News and Stories

9.2 miles today and 3805 overall

What began as a notion in Colin’s mind and was presented to Bob and Steve over beers at Maelstrom Brewing in Kirkland Washington on December 27, 2023 is now done. We started at Rialto Beach on the Pacific Coast and finished in the Tidal Basin in Washington, DC.

At this point I’ll just offer a straight forward summary of the day. It’s too soon for a deep assessment of what it all means.

Starting from McLean, VA, well fed and well rested, we began the last push at the crack of 9:30 AM. My brother Terry was our guide, navigating us through the burbs of Viginia, the last miles of the C&O canal and the busy streets of Washington. The first “interesting” thing we saw was the fire department practicing swift water rescue as we crossed the Potomac River into DC.

We jumped on the towpath and found our first milepost.

Then we headed for mile 0.

In short order we were at mile 0 of the C&O canal where it meets up with the Potomac River. It’s hard to see from the picture but this is the first lock boats would enter to begin the 184.5 mile journey up to Cumberland, Maryland. Currently major repairs are underway to help preserve the canal.

From there, Terry deftly navigated us to the Tidal Basin dodging tourists, commuters, and joggers.

Arriving at the Tidal Basin we searched for a safe spot to dip our front tires into the water. Close followers of the blog will remember that we dipped our rear tires into the Pacific.

We found a suitable place.

Our journey done, we now switched from cross country adventurers to tourists. Terry proceeded to show us the highlights of the Washington Mall.

We took Pennsylvania Avenue to check out the White House. We road down the center of the avenue, not because we’re overly confident, but because that’s where they put the bike lane. It was heads-up riding and fun.

For some reason we did not feel like taking a picture of the White House.

Riding in the heat called for a stop for ice cream so we found a shop in Georgetown on the way back to Terry’s. Another task for the day was for Colin to buy his last round of “State Line Beer” for Bob and Steve. We headed “Are you _____ kidding me!” up hills to the Lost Dog Cafe.

When we got back to Terry and Maureen’s home we opened a surprise gift from Terry’s running buddy and cyclist Jim. We knew Jim followed the blog closely because the gift included ice cold local craft beer AND a peanut butter, banana taco.

All were enjoyed.

9.2 miles today and 3805 overall, fini

We’re done, dipped our front tires into the Tidal Basin in Washington, DC, just before 11AM EDST. More details tonight. Thanks to Terry for guiding us through the last miles.

55.8 miles today, 3796 miles overall

Until a few days ago, we weren’t exactly sure where we would terminate our trip; it would either be on the coast or at the end of the C&O Canal in Georgetown, DC.  We’ve had a lot of fun, it’s getting hot at night, and there are no great bike trails between DC and New York, so we decided we’d call it in DC.  Today was to be our penultimate day of riding.  We would spend the night just shy our goal, and enjoy the hospitality of Steve’s brother and sister-in-law, then knock off the final few miles to Georgetown and do a tour of Washington DC tomorrow.

So, we slept well at the Holiday Inn and enjoyed the included breakfast.  As we were packing our bikes, Steve stopped to study the C&O Canal map, then pronounced, “We’re going into a remote area with limited services today. We’d better be prepared”.  With only 55 mi to go to our nation’s capital, Bob and I were surprised, he didn’t seem nearly as concerned as we crossed the wilds of Montana or Wyoming.  After we laughed at the absurdity, and we were confident we were ‘prepared’, we went downstairs. Then, as soon as we got outside, Bob and Steve decided to check their tire pressures and when that was done they realized maybe they should go back inside and fill their water canteens.

Finally ‘prepared’ for the wilderness, we rolled downhill and got on the trail at close to milepost 54.

It was more of the same on the trail; a tunnel of green.  The canal had more water, but some of it was rather green.

We stopped for our final trail lunch of bananas and peanut butter on tortillas. 

Lunch-time entertainment was a bunch of kids throwing themselves off the aqueduct. 

I videoed two jumps and shared the result with the kids. During our post-lunch cleanup we had a good chat with a trail bike-patrol volunteer.  He shared some great historical information with us and casually mentioned that you’re not allowed to jump off the bridges. We kept quiet about the kids and my video evidence, and, out of respect for his work, we walked our bikes for the first time at the sign that said ‘walk your bike’.

We’ve been running over some round chestnutty looking things on the trail for days now.  Over lunch, with Google’s, help I figured out that they are osage oranges.

After lunch we reach part of the trail where the canal contained clear water.  We should have known it was going to be pretty because there were artists out painting.

As usual, we ran into some obstacles, none insurmountable.

We thought we deserved a reward for our obstacle clearing efforts and stopped at this attractive historic tavern.  Unfortunately, its days of serving beer were historical so we went on thirsty. 

I stopped for a look at the Great Falls of the Potomac (Steve and Bob have seen it before), and they are quite impressive.

Beyond the falls is perhaps the most scenic part of the canal; in this area it follows the course of the ancient Potomac, high above the current river.

We moved on and briefly entered the District of Columbia, then climbed a very steep hill into McLean, and found ourselves at the end of Terry and Maureen’s driveway.

We were treated to some cold beer and watermelon in the garage.

And, after we cleaned up, a wonderful meal.

…of cruelly steep bike routes and flat tyres.

36.85 miles today, 3741 overall

When waking at camp, we we read news reports of flash flooding and extreme rainfall that we travelled through yesterday.  The bugs at camp have been relentless. The weather forecast for today is not much different than the wet day before. We booked a hotel room at our expected destination, a conservative distance away. 

We were then met by a beautiful day from beginning to end. While the C&O trail has rough patches on this segment, it is certainly a trail anyone can navigate.  

Harper’s Ferry is a unique town that I have now visited twice. Over the 15 years since I first visited, I forgot that the fully loaded bicycles need to travel up and down a spiral staircase and across an old railway bridge spanning the Potomac river. This was fun exercise that enabled us to have good food and beer good food, beer and ice cream.

None of us complained that we didn’t get rained on all day.  It was about 90 degrees and humid though, and the comforts of a Holiday Inn are most welcome.  

56.2 miles today and 3704 overall

We began the day in Little Orleans, Maryland, up a ridge from the C&O canal. Well fed and showered from last night we were ready to ride. We even sported freshly laundered clothes.

The weather forecast called for a chance of thunderstorms, a chance of showers, sunshine, warm temperatures and high humidity. The forecast was spot on.

The first part of the ride was along the Western Maryland Railroad Trail a fairly new rail to trail conversion with a beautiful asphalt finish. It only went for about 25 miles but it was a great way to start the day. The old railroad grade was just above the canal itself so we took that for the full length and enjoyed it; a really nice trail.

At at the end of the WMRT, we hopped back down to the canal and continued our journey down the Potomac River towards Georgetown in Washington DC.

We had our second breakfast or early lunch, depending on who’s counting, in Hancock, a nice old town. Bob was able to find some replacement pedals to fix an unexpected mechanical issue.

Further down the trail we took a break to wait out a thunderstorm. It was at a wide, slow part of the Potomac River, where the tow path is actually along the side of the river, and there is no canal. We watched the lightning and listened to the thunder. It was pretty impressive.

Continuing on, we eventually got caught in yet another thunderstorm but kept moving through it. By this time we were looking for places to camp for the evening and navigating around various detours along the trail.

After yet another flat we decided to take a break in Williamsport. Colin has recently been beset by an annoying series of flats in his front tire. The causes have been difficult to find. Colin appears to be seriously challenging Steve for the title of flat tire king.

Repairs completed we decided to get some dinner since it was getting late. We ended up at the C&O Grill. As we pulled up several patrons outside the front door on a smoke break, assured us that the chance of our bikes getting stolen was slim. In fact, according to one, we were more likely to see Jesus than have our bikes stolen. We took that as solid advice, left our bikes in front and had decent bar food and a couple beers. Our bikes were still there when we finished. Unfortunately we did not see Jesus.

Long story short, we found a good spot for the night. We’re getting some decent cold showers decent facilities, and getting ready for tomorrow Colin is doing a deep dive on what’s causing the flats. We will work on our route planning for tomorrow.

Some pics from the day

We are eating the other 6 inches of the foot-long subs we bought earlier, while waiting-out the rain under a slight overhang on the C&O Canal Towpath.

Concurrently, we are watching the trail conditions deteriorate.  😕

46.6 miles today, 3646 miles overall

We were pleased to camp under a ramada last night, where the late thunder storm posed no threat and our setup (and tear down) was minimal.  We were forewarned that a rail line ran close by, but we didn’t realize it was this close!

We decided to have someone cook breakfast for us today so we wound our way back through the old station…

… into downtown, and found ourselves at the Cafe Mark.

After we were fed and stocked up at a grocery store, we met Steve’s friends, Tim and Vince, at the end of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal Trail (called the C&O canal trail, for short (and also a national historic park)) and started riding.

Within just a few miles we were out of town and riding between the canal on our left and the Potomac River on our right.

There are at least 75 locks between Georgetown and Cumberland and at this end none are functional.  Large parts of the canal are dry or blocked.

Some more more pictures of the canal and towpath below.

In some places the canal had to cross tributaries of the Potomac and aqueducts were built to carry the canal over them.  All of the aqueducts we encountered were now dry.

The engineers who built the canal chose to tunnel 3000 ft through Tunnel Hill, rather than try to follow 6 mi of the winding River course.  We enjoyed walking through the dark tunnel separated by a guardrail from the canal on our left.  It was mercifully much cooler in the tunnel than on the towpath today.

On the east side of the tunnel there was a long cut, shown in the picture below, where there was a nice boardwalk to ride along.

As has become common, we saw many deer and several fawns on the trail today.  We also saw this character who retreated into his shell when I tried to take a photograph.

After stopping and enjoying a beer, down-hill from our campsite, Vince facilitated additional beer consumption and Steve and Bob enjoyed it thoroughly.

Footnote…

In the Farrell household we recognize that someone always has to be last and there is only a problem if the same person is last every time (Iona, you know who you are).  And I’m pleased to report that Steve, in theory at least, is no longer a problem. Today, on day 68 of this trip, he was ready and waiting for me and Bob to finish packing.  We were shocked, he was cocky, and he thinks he can do it again tomorrow.  We’ll see. 

There are many hiker biker campsites on the C&O Canal Trail.  Most have well water that is not potable. It’s been so hot it was put to a better use.

It depends. I first felt “interesting” when we rounded a corner on a rural road and 200 heads belonging to a herd of cows that is, (400 eyes) turned to look at us. Us, three slow moving things, not human and not cars or trucks were strange and demanded attention, therefore interesting. They stare at us until all three of us have passed from view. Occasionally when coming upon cattle that presumably have been out on the open range for a while they react with fear and start to run slowly away especially if they have calves with them.

Horses, however, look at us with mild indifference. They may look as we pass but quickly return to whatever they were doing before we appeared on the scene. Dogs mostly put on a show for their guardians. They bark loudly and some run vigorously to the limits of the fence and that’s most of the show. When liberated from the restrictions of a fence most work the same routine, rarely getting too close then jogging back to the front porch proud at chasing away the intruders confident in the proof of their courage as we disappear down the road. We are prepared for more serious encounters but on the two occasions (so far) where a air horn was employed, it seemed to be after the danger had passed.

Wildlife generally find us interesting but as a threat. Deer run and leap gracefully away as they become aware of our presence. Pronghorn see us from a mile away and keep an eye on us. If we get within half a mile they run effortlessly away. In the Badlands the prairie dogs found us very interesting but as a potential threat. Their sentries barked a warning that followed us down the road as we passed their “towns”. Bison are completely indifferent and none of the 3 of us is stupid enough to get close enough to test their indifference. We take a picture and move on. We tell ourselves that birds are announcing our presence as we roll down the road or trail. I actually I suspect the message is “Something strange is a coming. Beware!”

Humans find us interesting but in different ways depending on our relationship. One situation in which we relate to others is when we pull up to a local grocery store. There we tend to be unusual and therefore interesting to those with a curious nature, often younger children and older adults. A pleasant exchange often begins with: “Where ya going? Where’d ya start? How long will it take you? Why are you doing it?” Folks are variably interested, surprised, baffled at such an adventure, but always friendly and kind even if they think we’re nuts. The conversation almost always ends with a blessing and some version of “Take care, be safe”. These interactions have been a sweet heartwarming part of the trip.

Another way we interact is as a vehicle sharing the road with other vehicles. Bike trivia, Washington State considers bicycles vehicles and prescribes almost all of the same privileges and responsibilities to them as motor vehicles. Most other states have similar regulations. That’s a long way of saying that we are allowed to use the roads. And we do. We’re also smart about it preferring low traffic country roads and trails when we can.

As we ride the roads, in many ways, we relate to every other person “on the road” as just another vehicle. One that needs to be noticed, assessed and responded to. We have lights and bright clothing to be noticed and do our best to move predictability.

To the vast majority of motor vehicle operators we are just another vehicle that needs to be dealt with. Of course we are slow moving, but we’re not the only ones. Once you get beyond the suburbs, in many counties, you’ll routinely encounter farm vehicles. They come in a variety shapes, sizes and colors but most are big, wide, and slow. They require other motorists to slow down, wait to pass safely and generally be both patient and “not stupid”.

I was frankly surprised early in our trip as we rode through Eastern Washington at how much room cars and trucks would give us as they passed. On coming traffic consistently slowed or moved to the edge of the road to make passing easier and safer for everyone. So for 99% of the drivers on the road we were interesting but only in the sense of another vehicle to deal with. Professional drivers, those driving big rigs, were consistently courteous.

Rarely we are perceived as annoying interlopers intruding on the spaces reserved for the omnipresent internal combustion engine. If an interaction occurs our usual response is a friendly wave.

So we are interesting in different ways. We have found the past 3600 miles incredibly interesting, the terrain, people, infrastructure, wildlife, weather, history, and more. Thanks for sharing this journey with us, so far.